Dhungar chaach (धुंगार छाछ) is buttermilk that has been smoked with a hot piece of coal and a drop of ghee. The smoke gives plain chaach a deep, almost roasted smell. At Govindam Retreat in Jaipur it comes as Dhungari Hui Chaach, the drink on the Rs 700 Rajasthani thali.
What is dhungar chaach?
Dhungar chaach is chaach, a thin salted drink made by whisking curd with water, that has been flavoured with smoke using the dhungar method. A small bowl holding a glowing coal goes inside the vessel and ghee is poured on the coal. The lid goes on so the smoke settles into the buttermilk.
Plain chaach is common across India. Wikipedia's chaas page describes it as a curd-based drink popular across the Indian subcontinent. Smoking it with a coal is a home technique from Rajasthani cooking. The name Dhungari Hui Chaach on the Govindam menu means exactly that, smoked chaach.
How does the dhungar method work?
The dhungar method traps smoke from ghee on a hot coal inside a closed pot. The coal is heated until it glows, set in a small steel bowl inside the pot, then a little ghee is dropped on it. The lid is closed for a few minutes and the coal is removed.
Step | What happens |
|---|---|
Heat | A piece of charcoal is heated until it glows red |
Place | The coal sits in a small bowl inside the chaach vessel |
Smoke | A few drops of ghee go on the coal and start to smoke |
Cover | The lid is closed so smoke stays in the pot |
Remove | After a few minutes the coal is taken out and the chaach is stirred |
The same trick is used on dal and some curries. Times and amounts vary by cook, so this is how the method works, not a fixed recipe.
What does smoked buttermilk taste like?
Smoked buttermilk tastes like ordinary salted chaach with a smoky, ghee-rich smell on top. The sourness and salt stay the same. Spices such as roasted cumin often go in too, so the drink tastes savoury rather than sweet. The smoke is strongest in the first few sips.
If you have only had sweet lassi, dhungar chaach will feel very different. It is thin, salty and meant to sit beside a meal, not replace it.
When should you drink chaach with a Rajasthani thali?
Chaach is usually drunk with the meal or right after it. On a thali full of ghee, besan and garlic, a glass of cool buttermilk breaks up the richness between bites. At Govindam Retreat the chaach comes on the plate, so you can sip it as you go or keep it for the end.
Our page on the authentic taste of Rajasthan shows where the smoky note sits among the other flavours on the plate. The full list of 18 dishes is on the Rajasthani thali items list.
Is dhungar chaach the same as lassi?
No. Lassi is thicker and is often sweet, while chaach is thin, salted and spiced. Dhungar chaach is chaach with added smoke. All three start from curd, but they are made and drunk differently. Lassi is usually a drink on its own rather than part of a thali.
If you want to pair the chaach with something sour and creamy from the same plate, try it with the Rajasthani kadhi pakoda.
Where can you try dhungar chaach in Jaipur?
Govindam Retreat is on the first floor above All Rajasthan Shilp Gram Udyog, Rajamal Ka Talab Road, near Govind Dev Ji Temple, Gangori Bazaar, Jaipur 302002. It is open daily from 10 AM to 11 PM. Call +91 9929949258 to check a dish or book a table. Dhungari Hui Chaach comes with the Traditional Rajasthani Thali at Rs 700 per person. Groups of 10 or more should book through the reservation page.